If you live in cities like Hong Kong, Macau, or even Singapore, you may have come across a lineup of Asian wines in a swanky hotel restaurant or Michelin-starred establishments. More and more sommeliers and chefs are embracing vino from this side of the world, and in particular, Chinese wineries making world-class wines are gaining recognition, and they’re bringing some intriguing flavors along for the ride.
The recently concluded second edition of the Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards Grand Ceremony, held at The Grand Theater Wynn Palace last April 11, was a testament to the burgeoning elegance of Chinese wines. The awards showcased top-notch varietals from rosé in Shandong, Marselan in Hebei, to bold Cabernet Sauvignon in Ningxia. With a ripple effect aimed at reshaping global perceptions. Awarded wines put in the spotlight are confidently declaring: we’re not just here to stay; we’re here to impress.
We sat down with Eddie McDougall, award-winning winemaker and chairman of the Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards, to learn more about the awards and Chinese wines.
A Blend of Tradition and Innovation
The evolution of Chinese wine is not just about geography; it’s about grit. According to Eddie, Chinese vintners have mastered in 15 years what took other regions centuries to achieve. This rapid catch-up is fueled by a mash-up of scientific know-how, cultural openness, and a whole lot of experimentation.
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The heart of Chinese wine lies in the art of creating something inherently personal yet universally appreciated. Winemakers from various regions are primarily older generations of local farmers, as well as some vintners whose skills have been honed overseas and brought back home. “And it’s not just the winemaking side; it’s also the grape-growing side,” states Eddie. “There’s a better understanding, mutual respect, and a deeper knowledge of regionality regarding what works in terms of varietal expressions for specific regions. There has been a lot of trial and error, but I think they are getting to the point now where there is a level of confidence and a deeper level of knowledge,” he adds.
Along with numerous trophies and gold medal awards for multiple wineries, this year’s Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards shone for Ningxia Helan Mountain Renyiyuan Winery, which took home the most awards. Their Renyiyuan Tao Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 snagged the prestigious “Best Wine of China” award, along with “Best Red Wine,” “Best of Ningxia,” and “Best Cabernet Sauvignon.” Plus, winemaker Kai Kang made history as the first recipient of the newly introduced “Best Young Winemaker” award. According to Eddie, the winery’s focus is a key factor in their success. “If you take a look at their track record in international competitions, you’ll see a consistent upward trend in their scores, ratings, and medal counts. I think they submitted the right vintages, and they got it right,” explains Eddie.
Discover China’s Regional Varietals and Wine Styles
Currently, Chinese wines do not have an appellation system to standardize wine production across various regions, unlike the wine appellations in the US, France, Italy, and Spain. Ningxia is the only Chinese wine region with a classification system, but most of the rules and evaluation criteria focus more on wineries’ ability to receive tourists and their capacity than on wine growing and production.
However, Eddie says that Chinese regional wines have their signature varietals, and terroir plays a big part in their production. Growers have become agile, tailoring their vines to the whims of varied climates and harsh growing conditions, resulting in varietals like Marselan—China’s melodic answer to Argentina’s Malbec and Chile’s Carménère.
Marselan is a French wine grape variety, a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. Introduced to China in 2001, Huailai, a county in northwestern Hebei province, was the site of the original plantings of Marselan, with the first examples showcased by Domaine Franco-Chinois—initially the Sino-French Cooperation Demonstration Farm, established as an agricultural collaboration project between China and France. Not surprisingly, Domaine Franco-Chinois Reserve Marselan 2012 earned “Best of North China” and “Best Marselan” at the recent Chinese Wine Awards. Marselan expert and Master of Wine Julian Boulard even refers to this variety as China’s Trojan horse and entry point to the global wine market.
“It’s hard to definitively say that Marselan is the great wine varietal for that region, but it certainly has a legacy and a significant vine age. I believe there’s a lot of promise for it there,” states Eddie. “In terms of the whites, I love the Rieslings from the area and even Petit Manseng as a sweet wine has done incredibly well,” he adds.
Shandong is along the coastal side, and Chardonnay is their hero varietal in that area. “It’s on the east coast, a seaside maritime area with a continental climate,” Eddie explains. “Initially, there was a focus on producing a lot of full-bodied red wines; however, it’s actually too humid there, and they don’t get enough ripening periods to justify growing these rich, full-bodied reds,” he adds. “Interestingly, even in our awards, the one that won the trophy was a rosé style. I actually think the region lends itself better to whites and slightly more aromatic styles of wine, including lighter styles of Chardonnay—not the heavy, rich, buttery kind,” On the northeast side, where the climate is extremely cold, produces ice wine and Rieslings.
In Xinjiang, travelers from the Middle East who came into China brought with them grape cuttings and unique varietals that originated from many Eastern European varieties, such as Rkatsiteli (white) and Saperavi (red).
If you go further to Ningxia, where there’s a considerable spread of varietals, richer, full-bodied Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons from the region shine best, as well as promising examples of top Syrah. Helan Mountain Special Reserve Chardonnay 2021 from Ningxia received two awards for “Best White Wine” and “Best Chardonnay” at this year’s awards.
In higher altitude areas like Yunnan and Sichuan, Riesling works very well, along with Chardonnay, and there is a lot of potential for Pinot Noir, starting from Lijiang to Shangri-La. Eddie says amazing micro-winery setups are emerging in Lijiang that produce wine, which may be released to the market within the next 12 to 18 months.
Challenges and Opportunities in Chinese Wine Production and Entry to the Global Market
Navigating the landscape of Chinese wine is no small feat. While the regulatory framework may be in its infancy compared to Europe’s long-established systems, this lack of constraints gives rise to innovative viticulture. However, without standardization, winemakers risk losing their focus. Eddie says awards like the Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards are crucial. They establish benchmarks and utilize expert judges—including Masters of Wine and Master Sommeliers—to elevate the industry’s standards and showcase its potential globally.
The presence of Chinese wines in restaurants around the world is still limited, often seen only in Michelin-starred establishments that can justify the price points. The wines that won and were tasted during the wine pairing after the award ceremonies were among the best Chinese wines you can find on the market, but the costs per bottle can range from HKD1,000 to HKD2,000 and above. Eddie highlights pricing as a significant challenge, noting that the rising labor costs in China make it expensive to produce wine. Burying the vines to protect them from the cold further increases operational costs, making efficiency a significant hurdle.
Despite these challenges, a promising shift is underway in the industry. This year’s competition saw a significant increase in entries—25% more than the previous year—demonstrating growing confidence among winemakers.
Award-winning Chinese wines from this year will be prominently featured on wine lists at top restaurants in Wynn and events throughout the year, including a special tasting at 67 Pall Mall in Singapore. Major international exhibitions are also on the agenda, ensuring these wines gain the exposure they deserve in the broader market.
Learn more about the Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards and its list of awardees at wynnresortsmacau.com.
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