Photo by Star Sabroso
Kuala Lumpur’s cocktail scene is really taking off, and it’s definitely one to keep an eye on in Asia’s buzzing bar culture. Right now, the city has three spots on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list: Bar Trigona (No. 36), Reka (No. 41), and Penrose, which is ranked No. 8 and snagged the title of The Best Bar in Malaysia for 2024, including the Highest Climber Award. There are also some exciting new bars popping up, like Lavantha, which we recently checked out in Chinatown, and it’s definitely a must-visit when you hit this town.
The new bar is the brainchild of the folks behind Penrose—some of the key tastemakers in the city’s food and drink scene: Jon Lee, Matthew Goh, and Brandon Tan, all of whom played a big part in the recently held Kuala Lumpur Cocktail Week (KLCW).
The bar is located in the repurposed vault of the historic Oriental Bank, right inside the Moxy Kuala Lumpur Chinatown that just opened in April. Their space features three venues under one roof.
The main area, which includes the bar, seats 40 and can accommodate up to 60 standing guests. There’s also a cozy cigar room for 15 people, and a hidden gem called The Conservatory—a private room with a table for four, exclusively accessible to VIPs and close friends.
Just a quick 650-meter stroll from Penrose, Lavantha is reached via a spiral staircase from the lobby, which is the original entry to the bank vault. If you’ve ever been to Penrose, you’ll feel and see the same DNA and philosophy: minimal design and excellent craft cocktails. “I think we’re just expanding on what Penrose is: elegance, decent service, a safe drinking space with good music—somewhere you can mingle and talk to people,” explains Jon.
Walking into the entryway to Lavantha feels like stepping into a triangular tunnel. The dimly lit space features terracotta, emerald green, and black hues, compared to Penrose, which is decked in black, gray, and maroon. And to preserve the history of the place, they opted to retain the heavy bank vault door, allowing guests to still see this feature in the interior.
The bar lights up the counter, and the first thing you’ll spot is a striking reflective monolith at the center. “This space was once a bank vault, transformed into Lavantha, so as a nod to its history of holding gold bars and currency, we’ve added the ‘monolith’ design, typically horizontal but presented here vertically,” explains Jon. “It’s like a mirror, and that reminds me that hospitality is a lot like that. If you come in as a nice, genuine guest, you’ll likely get great service. But if you’re coming in all demanding, it sets a different tone. So, to me, hospitality really is a reflection of the guest,” he adds.
Interestingly, Penrose refers to different types of roses, while ‘lavanta’ is the Turkish word for lavender, so it seems they’ve embraced a floral theme across their venues. However, the term ’Lavantha’ was coined by Jon after it popped into his head during a dream. He added it to his Rolodex of cocktail names and used it for a drink he crafted in Niseko, Japan, during a bar pop-up. “When I wrapped up the whole menu for Niseko, I couldn’t find a name for this last drink, so I just threw in Lavantha as a placeholder. There’s really no deep meaning behind it, but it ended up becoming one of our best sellers,” Jon enthuses. That drink is now part of their cocktail menu, a gin-based cocktail with berry, cacao, elderflower, and yuzu.
The cocktail menu at Lavantha is set up like Penrose, with categories based on drink styles: Tall for highballs, Sharp for sour drinks, Forward for spirit-forward cocktails, and Savory for umami notes. In most bars, people can whip up all sorts of complex, over-the-top drinks, but sometimes they can be a bit overpowering. One of the hardest things to master is restraint, and that’s where Jon’s taste really shines. The cocktails at Lavantha are some of the best I’ve had in the city—flavorful and complex yet super clean on the palate. They’re definitely something you can order again and again. “I like minimalism, and I think expansion always comes by removing, not adding,” explains Jon.
Drinks here cost RM85, but if you order three, you can get them at RM178. For Tall drinks, my favorites were the refreshing gin-based Siccamore, which features notes of tarragon, jackfruit, bancha (green tea), and maple, along with the highball Charlatan, made with Scotch, chamomile, pineapple, and the citrusy pine notes of galangal. Both of these drinks are so easy to sip on that you’ll probably find yourself wanting more.
For something sour, you can’t miss the Lavantha, which shares the bar’s eponymous name, or try the tangy Gravastar with tequila, passion fruit, Dijon, and fenugreek that adds a slight nutty note.
If you enjoy umami notes, go for the Michelada, their take on the Mexican drink, which combines a mezcal-based cocktail with tomato, shishito, spices, and lager. One cocktail you absolutely must try is the Venduras Dune—a tropical and savory mix featuring rum, vinho verde, mango, and mint, garnished with capers.
For a punchier option, check out the Plakus Nectar, made with Scotch, whey, hazelnut, cacao, and amaro, which reminds us of a nutty Manhattan. Another great choice is the Adonis #2, featuring Cognac, vermouth, aged sherry, and smoky notes for a longer-lasting finish. With 16 cocktails on the menu, there’s definitely something for everyone, and it will not disappoint.
They were still in their soft opening when we visited, so bites were unavailable. However, the bar will soon serve tapas with a Japanese flair. “Nothing fried, more fresh—more ceviche, a bit zesty, and really, really fresh,” explains Jon. “We’re going to incorporate salty products from Japan, like dashi, soy, and kombu, bringing all those salty elements into the dishes. We’re going to elevate it instead of just using salt, making it great for pairing with the drinks,” he adds.
Jon recommends that if you’re on this side of town, have dinner first, then head to Penrose for a couple of drinks. Once you’re feeling good and want more, make your way to Lavantha for late-night drinks.
The venue opens at 8pm and closes at 2am from Wednesday to Sunday, and is located on the lower ground floor of Moxy Kuala Lumpur Chinatown, 1 Jalan Hang Lekiu, Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur. Follow them on Instagram via @lavantha.kl for more updates.
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